4 Digit PC Analyzer or Debug Card. Photo and Error CODEs

8 LEDs indication, easy to read LED Display on the Display, LED displays show diagnosis result of motherboard. Especially helpful to pinpoint the problem when power on the computer and find no display or machine hangs up 

Diagnosis the motherboard signal which show the problem of CPU, Memory, video card, etc 

The POST code display is made up of a dual, dot matrix hexadecimal read-out that display's Power On Self Test (POST) status codes 

Support the power source working indicator -- +5V, +12V, +3.3V and -12V (When indicator LED is on to indicate its respective power is fine, otherwise to indicate its respective power is failure.) 

Fully compatible with any kind motherboards which has the PCI and ISA bus slot 

Self checking remote display function 

Dual POST code display - User can readout the POST at PCB component and solder side. 

It is easy to view the POST code when user plugs the POST card in computer system 

Recall previous post codes at the touch of a button 

Drastically reduce troubleshooting time 

Quick and easy to install into an open PCI or ISA slot of PC motherboard

Product Name: PC Mainboard Analyzer 

Interface: PCI 

Style: 4 Digits 

Color: Red

Overall Dimension: Approx. 7.9cm x 5.8cm x 1cm (L*W*T)

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5 Common problems of Hard Disk

Hard Drive Running Slow
This is probably the most common problem people have with their hard drives. Unfortunately, that is not a hard drive problem but an operating system (OS) issue. Simply defragmenting your computer will fix this situation.

Hard Drive Won't SpinIf your hard drive won't spin,

This is possibly because of a power differential. Either there is a problem with the electrical cables or your hard drive simply is not getting enough power.

Hard Drive Not RecognizedIf your computer won't recognize your hard drive, you may have to play with the BIOS. Ensure that your hard drive and disc drive BIOS are enabled.

C Drive Not Recognized
As with your hard drive not being recognized, if your computer will not recognize your hard drive as the primary C drive, check your BIOS and run any BIOS discs that came with the hard drive.

Frequent Drive Failure
If your hard drive fails on you often, you may have a simple case of dusty computer. A thorough cleaning should help with this issue.

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5 Fixing a Hard Drive Problem

Hard Drive Failure 101

There are a few signs that can mean a hard drive failure is coming. A clicking noise coming from a computer is one of the most common and clear signs that a drive is on its last legs. If you hear your hard drive clicking, chances are it's time to get a new one - before it quits. Another common error is programs freezing. While blue screens can often indicate RAM problems, freezing programs often indicate that the hard drive has an error on it. These problems are usually cheaper - but not always easy - to fix.

So if you think your hard drive has a problem, what do you do? 

Fixing a Hard Drive Problem

Back It Up
Regardless of hardware or software failure, it's always good to back up your data. The simplest solution is to use a cloud-hosted solution, although what option you use will depend on how much data you need to save. You don't need to copy everything off your hard drive, but include any irreplaceable files. If you have fewer than 5 gigabytes of data, consider using Google Drive. If, on the other hand, you have a lot of photos and videos, consider a paid data backup option like Crashplan, or a physical backup drive like the Seagate GoFlex, which you can use for automatic backups. (Get more tips in Cloud Vs. Local Backup: Which One Do You Need?)

Check Your Disk for ErrorsThe easiest way to see what's wrong with your disk is simply to ask it. If you're running Windows XP, Vista, Windows 7, or Windows 8, open "My Computer," right-click on the drive you want to test (probably c:), then click "Properties," the "Tools" tab, and the "Check Now" button. If you have a pretty good feeling it's going to find a few problems, check both of the boxes. They'll fix any errors that can be repaired. If you're lucky, this will solve your error problems.

Replace the DriveThere's a chance your hard drive will be almost kaput and the diagnostic tool will tell you so. If the diagnostic tool crashes, replace the hard drive as soon as possible. If you do this, make sure to deactivate any software like Office 365 or Adobe programs. You can then install Windows on a new hard drive and restore your files from backup.

Clone the DriveIf you're feeling a bit more ambitious and don't want to start from scratch, you can make an "image" of your drive and put it on your new hard drive. Daemon Tools can help you do this, and you'll find instructions on how to restore the image here. Be warned that this is a technical process, and if your hard drive errors were due to viruses, you run the risk of transmitting the viruses to the new computer. If you want to do this but feel completely out of your league, make sure to contact a computer repair professional.

Hard drives cause problems more often than you'd think, and they can render your computer virtually inoperable. Fortunately, the fix is often fairly simple. No matter what you do, remember to back up your hard drive regularly. That way if it does fail, you'll still be able to retrieve your most important data.

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Hard disk Problem

Hard drive serial killers are the destructive forces that threaten to destroy your hard drive. The six worst hard drive destroyers are simpler than you might think.

Serial Killer #1: Heat: The primary cause of hard drive failures is hardware overheating. Inadequate ventilation and cooling in and around your computer hardware can cause severe damage to the equipment. Overworked hardware with little or no downtime and smoke or fire damage can wreak havoc on a system.

Serial Killer #2: Physical damage to your computer: Any type of physical force, such as bumping, jarring, or dropping your computer may lead to physical damage to the hard drive. If your computer is in use at the time of the impact, the read/write heads may touch or gouge the disks, causing damage to the platter’s magnetic surfaces where the data is embedded. This is known as a head crash, and the damage can be significant. Even if your computer is powered down, the likelihood of jarring your computer’s components is still present.

Serial Killer #3: Power Surges: A power surge can be caused by lightning strikes, interference with power lines, or by any event which causes the flow of energy to be interrupted and then restarted. Power surges can result in data loss when the read/write heads fail to function properly, and in the worst case, a complete computer crash.

Serial Killer #4: Water Damage: Moisture caused by flooding or even by spilling a liquid onto your computer is almost assuredly bad news. The casing that holds the hard disk drive is not designed to be a barrier against water penetration. Water will have damaging effects on a computer’s electronic parts and disk components, possibly even causing unwanted electrical currents which can further damage your computer.

Serial Killer #5: Corrupted files: Improperly closing a program, turning of your computer before closing files, and installing new software can cause files to become corrupted. Power failures and accidental computer shut downs can contribute to corrupted files, and causing damage to the hard drive.

Serial Killer #6: Human error: The functions of the hard drive can be impaired by human tampering with the system files. Accidental deletion of files imperative to the disk drive is not uncommon. Improper installation and removal of files from your computer can cause the hard disk to malfunction. Activities conducted during a forensic investigation of a computer may also compromise the hard drive.

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Install a USB device

The first time you connect a device that plugs into a universal serial bus (USB) port,Windows automatically installs a driver for that device. After a driver is installed, you can disconnect and reconnect the device without performing any additional steps.

Before you install your device

Check the instructions included with the device to determine whether a driver should be installed before you connect the device. Typically, Windows detects a new device after you connect it, and then installs the driver automatically. However, some devices require you to install the driver before plugging the device in.

Also, while most devices that have power switches should be turned on before you connect them, others require that you turn them on during the installation process. Because of issues like this, it's a good idea to read the instructions included with a new device before you connect it.

If the instructions that came with your device contradict the information in this topic, follow the instructions that came with the device.


Plugging your device in
If your USB device uses a power cord, you should connect the device to a power source and turn it on before connecting it.

Next, determine which USB port you want to connect your device to. If your computer has USB ports on the front, consider using one of those if you plan to frequently connect and disconnect the device.

Plug the device into the USB port. If Windows is able to install a device driver automatically, you'll be notified that the device is ready to use. Otherwise, Windows will prompt you to insert a disc containing the driver for the device.

After installation is complete, check the information for your device to see if any additional software that might have been included with the device should be installed.

Occasionally you might have a USB device that Windows cannot recognize and that did not come with a disc containing a driver. If this is the case, you can try to find a driver for the device yourself. Start by checking the website of the device manufacturer. You can often download drivers from the support section of such sites. For more information, see

Tips for solving problems with USB devices.

Notes

• When connecting a device to a USB port on a USB hub, monitor, or other device that's plugged into your computer, ensure that the USB port has enough power to support your device. Smaller devices, such as USB flash drives and mice, and devices with their own power cords, such as printers, typically work properly when connected to an unpowered USB hub. Some devices that use more power, such as USB-powered scanners and web cameras, require a hub that has its own power cord to function properly. If a device doesn't work properly when connected to a hub, try connecting it directly to one of your computer's USB ports.

• Devices that transfer large amounts of information, such as external hard disks, scanners, and video cameras, function best when connected to high-speed USB 2.0 ports. Some older computers may include only USB 1.x ports, or a mix of USB 1.x and 2.0 ports. If your device requires a high-speed port to function properly, check information provided by the manufacturer for your computer to ensure that the port you're using supports USB 2.0. If your computer includes only USB 1.x ports, you can add USB 2.0 ports by installing a USB 2.0 card inside your computer.

Connecting and disconnecting devices

Most USB devices can be removed and unplugged at will. When unplugging storage devices, such as USB flash drives, you should be sure that the computer has finished saving any information to the device before removing it. If the device has an activity light, wait for a few seconds after the light has finished flashing before unplugging it.

If you see the Safely Remove Hardware icon in the notification area at the far right of the taskbar, you can use this to ensure that devices have finished all operations in progress and are ready to remove. Click the icon and you'll see a list of devices. Click the device you want to remove.

You can use any USB port when plugging in a device that you've previously installed. However, the first time you plug a device into a particular port, Windows will install the driver for that device again.

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How to Install a Graphics Card

A personal computer can display decent graphics with the integrated chips built into its motherboard. If you want or need better quality graphics, such as for playing video games, editing videos or graphic design, then you want to install a dedicated graphics card in one of your computer's expansion slots. Installing a graphics card is fairly easy, but it does take time and care. Here's how to install a graphics card on Windows and Macintosh desktops.

Installing in a Windows Desktop

1. Determine what kind of expansion slot your computer has. There are many types of desktop PC expansion slots, such as PCI. PCI-e, pci-e2.0 and AGP. You can determine which kind of slot your computer has by looking at the motherboard (meaning you'll have to turn off your computer and remove its case) or by reading the schematic of the motherboard in your computer's user manual. you can also google the type of computer you have and get the manual online if you don't have it. You'll need to get the kind of graphics card that fits into the slot you have.

2. Uninstall any old graphics card drivers you may have. To uninstall the drivers, find Windows' Device Manager. In Device Manager, double-click your graphics card's name to display its Properties window. Click the Driver tab and then the button for uninstalling the driver. 

• To find Device Manager in Windows XP and earlier, right-click My Computer and select Properties to display the Properties dialog. Click the Hardware tab, then click the Device Manager button.
• To find Device Manager in Windows Vista and later, click the Start button in the Taskbar to display the Start Menu. Look for the Search box (a field with a magnifying glass icon to its right) and type "Device Manager" into the field. (Uninstalling the driver is an Advanced function but may not be necessary; check the documentation for your replacement graphics card to confirm the need to uninstall the old drivers.)
• If you do not have an old graphics card, ignore this step.

3.Turn off your computer. Disconnect the power cord from the back, or unplug it from the outlet it's connected to. If the computer was running for a while before you turned it off, you may want to give the components time to cool before proceeding. 

4.Open the computer's case.

5.Ground yourself. Either touch a metal part of the computer case or put on an anti-static wrist strap. This will prevent you from getting an electric shock and from damaging the electronics in your computer by giving it an electric shock. You may also want to place your computer on a rubber mat or other non-conductive surface.

6. Locate the slot your old graphics card is in or the slot your new card is going in. Depending on the configuration of your PC and its motherboard, you may need to lay the unit on its side.

7. Remove your old graphics card. You'll first have to remove a small screw attached to the back plate before you can take the card out.

• If you're not replacing an old graphics card, skip this step.

8.Install the new graphics card. Press the card straight and firmly into the slot. Make sure the card is firmly in the slot; your computer won't start up if the card isn't fully in place.

• AGP slot cards are a bit fussier about this than PCI slot cards.

9.Replace the screw in the back plate.

10.Replace the computer case cover. Plug the computer back in.

11.Install the drivers for your new graphics card. If you are installing in Windows Vista or later, Windows should automatically detect the presence of the card and install the new drivers for you, but do not count on this, all graphics cards come with a driver disc. insert this disc once you boot up and install from the disc.

• You may also want to check the graphics card manufacturer's Web site for more up-to-date drivers, which you can download and install.

12. Restart your computer. This completes the driver configuration process and lets your computer recognize and work with the new graphics card.

• If you hear a beeping sound, turn off your computer, open the case, remove the card and clean the slot with compressed air. Then reinstall the card. If this does not resolve the beeping, contact technical support for your card.

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To Install a, PCI slot, USB or Ethernet Network Card

To Install a, PCI slot, USB or Ethernet Network Card

1. Before you begin the board installation, switch off the power to the computer and any peripheral devices and disconnect all power cords.

Important Notes: Before handling the board, ground yourself using a grounding strap attached to the computers metal frame. If you don't have a grounding strap, bring the card, in it's antistatic packaging, to the computer and ground yourself and the card by touching the computer metal case to discharge any static build up on your body and the card wrapping.

Static build up occurs on the body by walking around, so once the card is removed from the packaging refrain from moving away from the computer.

Static charges on your body can damage electronic components. Handle plug-in cards by the edge, do not touch the electronic components or the gold connector contacts.

Make sure you have a philips (cross recess) screw driver handy.

2. Remove the cover on your computer to access the PCI expansion slots. Refer to your computer documentation if necessary.

3.Locate an unused PCI slot for installing the card, again refer to your computer documentation if required. All PCI slots are usually identical in capability so the only issue to resolve is the best physical location for the card within the computer case. Think about where you want the rear connector to appear on the back panel when the computer is in it's usual place.

4.Remove the blanking panel bracket from the rear of the computer case that covers the slot that you intend to use. Keep the bracket. Try not to drop the screw inside the computer when you remove it. Magnetic screwdrivers are sometimes handy for this job but make sure you keep magnets away from your floppy disks!

5.Remove the card from it's antistatic bag and insert the "edge connector" (gold plated contact lines) into the PCI slot, as pictured in Figure 1 below. Make sure the the edge connector is properly aligned with the PCI socket on the motherboard before pressing the card into place. Sometimes the physical tolerance of the computer case is not as good as it should be and card installation can be made more difficult. Apply even pressure to both ends of the card while inserting it.

6.Visually check to make sure the card is properly seated and is all the way down in the PCI slot. You should not be able to see much, if any, of the gold plated edge contact lines. If you have difficulty with a particular slot you can always try a different location.

7.Screw the cards rear bracket down with the screw removed earlier from the blanking panel bracket. Again try not to drop it into the computer. (If you do drop it, make sure you retrieve it BEFORE turning on the computer's power as screws are metalic and could cause electrical damage if left loose in the case).

8.You may now replace the computer's cover, reconnect the power cords to the computer and peripherals.

There, that wasn't so hard - the physical Installation is now complete!

2. Software Installation

Depending on the type of card installed, you may now need to configure the card within the operating system software before it can be used, please read the instructions that came with the card. If the card is truly "Plug and Play" and supported under your operating system (USB expansion card and Windows 98 for instance) all that may be required is to re-boot the computer and the operating system software will do the rest.

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How to install RAM Part 2

So you've installed a new hard drive andexpanded your computing horizons with new PCI cards - and that's great and everything - but your computer still runs too slowly. Sure you've got all that extra storage capacity and all those different ways to interface with your computer, but you've noticed that the old box just doesn't move like it used to.

Consequently, you've been worried that you may have to put the old girl to sleep. After all, your computer's had a good run. You've been through it all together - Slashdot to Digg, Dark Age of Camelot to World of Warcraft, HTML to PHP - but it just doesn't have the memory to keep up with all the spry young apps of today.

Worry no longer! This week, the hardware installation series takes on speeding up your old PC by installing more RAM (random access memory).

RAM wha?! If you're not familiar with RAM, think of it like this: If your CPU were a cook, then your hard drive is the refrigerator, and your RAM is the kitchen table. When your CPU starts cooking dinner, it lays out food from your hard drive/refrigerator on your RAM/kitchen table for fast and easy access. If your RAM is too small, you might not have enough space for all the food when the CPU starts cooking a big Thanksgiving dinner. That's when you know you need more RAM.

To those of you afraid of opening up your computer:
Computer hardware isn't the mysterious bad-boy you always thought. It
s actually more like the mysterious bad-boy who just wants to be loved. Once you show hardware acceptance, it
ll open up and totally love you back.

Please note:

Opening up your computer comes with some risk. Always keep safety in mind when working inside your computer (as you should with any electrical device). That said, getting comfortable with cracking it open and fiddling around opens up a whole new world of options and upgrades to your personal computing experience.

Before you undertake your installation, remember: More RAM isn't always the answer to fixing up a slow PC. After a certain point, your computer may not be able to take advantage of extra RAM, and additional memory may actually slow down your PC. Then again, if you've never installed RAM before, you aren't one of those people.

The type of RAM we're installing is DIMM (Dual In-line Memory Module - as opposed to S[ingle]IMM). Unless your PC is a real dinosaur, DIMM should be the right type. To make sure that you're installing the correct RAM for your PC, be sure to check your owner's manual. Motherboards can be finicky when it comes to RAM compatibility, so be sure to look before you leap. Regardless of specifications, the installation of RAM is simple and basically the same from motherboard to motherboard.

What you'll need:

• Compatible RAM
• Phillips screwdriver
• Your computer

For my installation, I'll be using the 184-pin DDR SDRAM pictured above.

Step 1: Prepare your computer

To get your computer ready, you need to make it safe. That means turning off the switch on the back of the power supply unit. (If you're going to be using your PSU as a grounded metal source, you'll want to keep it plugged in. If you have another ground, it's best to unplug the computer completely.) After turning off the power supply, wait at least 10 seconds before cracking open your case to allow the motherboard's capacitors to discharge. Once you've done this, you can sigh a deep breath of relief - you've circumvented the most dangerous aspect of installing RAM - electricity.

Once you've rendered your computer powerless, it's time to open up your case. This process varies from case to case, but it's relatively simple, especially with newer cases, and usually involves the removal of a couple of screws and a side panel. This should give you easy access and plenty of room to install your RAM.

While working inside your case, be mindful of static electricity. To avoid building up a static charge that could potentially short out a component, some people use an anti-static strap to ground themselves (available from most computer hardware retailers). I prefer not to use the strap. Instead, remember to touch a grounded metal surface from time to time to prevent a static charge from building. Touching your computer's power supply unit (provided it remains plugged in and turned off) should do the trick. 

Step 2: Find and prepare an empty RAM socket

This is easy enough. Just locate the RAM sockets on your motherboard and find an empty one. If you've never installed RAM in your computer, you should have at least one or two empty slots. When you're choosing the socket in which to install your RAM, again you should consult your manual. For example, your motherboard may require you to fill the sockets in a particular order. In my installation, my motherboard supports dual-channel mode, but the sticks of RAM need to be installed in the correct sockets for this to work. Next, the RAM retaining clips need to be opened up in order for RAM to be installed. All you need to do is press the retaining clips outward, opening the socket for installation.

Step 3: Finishing up

It's all pretty simple from here on out. Replace your computer's side panel and screw it into place. Plug in your power supply unit (remembering to flip the switch back on) and boot up. 

Now you're back in the realm of software where you're the undisputed master. To verify that your RAM upgrade was successful, right-click on My Computer and select Properties. Under "Computer," your expanded RAM size should be listed. If everything went well, you should see more MBs of RAM than you had before your installation.

Easy, right? Who knew upgrading your computer didn't involve a trip to the landfill followed by a phone call to Dell? Your newfound ability to install RAM should help out with those long load times and major system slow-downs you've been putting up with lately.

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How to Install RAM

Most of the time, installing RAM is a very simple and straightforward procedure. The key is to do your research. Here's what you need to know:

• How much RAM you have
• How much RAM you wish to add
• Form factor
• RAM type
• Tools needed
• Warranty
• Where it goes

RAM is usually sold in multiples of 16 megabytes: 16, 32, 64, 128, 256, 512, 1024 (which is the same as 1GB). This means that if you currently have a system with 64 MB RAM and you want at least 100 MB RAM total, then you will probably need to add another 64 MB module.

Once you know how much RAM you want, check to see what form factor(card type) you need to buy. You can find this in the manual that came with your computer, or you can contact the manufacturer. An important thing to realize is that your options will depend on the design of your computer. Most computers sold today for normal home/office use have DIMM slots. High-end systems are moving to RIMM technology, which will eventually take over in standard desktop computers as well. Since DIMM and RIMM slots look a lot alike, be very careful to make sure you know which type your computer uses. Putting the wrong type of card in a slot can cause damage to your system and ruin the card.

You will also need to know what type of RAM is required. Some computers require very specific types of RAM to operate. For example, your computer may only work with 60ns-70ns parity EDO RAM. Most computers are not quite that restrictive, but they do have limitations. For optimal performance, the RAM you add to your computer must also match the existing RAM in speed, parity and type. The most common type available today is SDRAM.

Additionally, some computers support Dual Channel RAM configuration either as an option or as a requirement. Dual Channel means that RAM modules are installed in matched pairs, so if there is a 512MB RAM card installed, there is another 512 MB card installed next to it. When Dual Channel is an optional configuration, installing RAM in matched pairs speeds up the performance of certain applications. When it's a requirement, as in computers with the Mac G5 chip(s), the computer will not function properly without matched pairs of RAM chips.

Before you open your computer, check to make sure you won't be voiding the warranty. Some manufacturers seal the case and request that the customer have an authorized technician install RAM. If you're set to open the case, turn off and unplug the computer. Ground yourself by using an anti-static pad or wrist strap to discharge any static electricity. Depending on your computer, you may need a screwdriver or nut-driver to open the case. Many systems sold today come in tool-less cases that use thumbscrews or a simple latch.

The actual installation of the memory module does not normally require any tools. RAM is installed in a series of slots on the motherboard known as the memory bank. The memory module is notched at one end so you won't be able to insert it in the wrong direction. For SIMMs and some DIMMs, you install the module by placing it in the slot at approximately a 45-degree angle. Then push it forward until it is perpendicular to the motherboard and the small metal clips at each end snap into place. If the clips do not catch properly, check to make sure the notch is at the right end and the card is firmly seated. Many DIMMs do not have metal clips; they rely on friction to hold them in place. Again, just make sure the module is firmly seated in the slot.

Once the module is installed, close the case, plug the computer back in and power it up. When the computer starts the POST, it should automatically recognize the memory. That's all there is to it!

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How to Dual Boot Windows 7 with XP or Vista

If you're dying to try out Windows 7 but aren't ready to give up your installation of XP or Vista, let's take a look at how to dual boot Windows 7 with XP or Vista.

Step 0: Download the Windows 7 Beta and Burn It to a DVD

Assuming you've already downloaded a fresh copy of Windows 7, you'll need to burn it to a DVD in order to do a fresh installation. To handle this task, grab a copy of the most popular CD and DVD burning tool ImgBurn, burn the ISO to a DVD, and move right along to step 1. 

Step 1: Partition Your Hard Drive

Before you go installing Windows 7, the first thing you need to do is create a new partition on your hard drive to hold the new installation of Windows. Partitioning your hard drive will vary depending on whether you're running XP or Vista—namely because Vista has a partition tool baked in, XP does not.

Partition Your Hard Drive in XP

To partition your hard drive in Windows XP, you'll need to download some sort of third-party partitioning software. There are a lot of options available, but I prefer to stick with the previously mentioned GParted live CD, a free, open source boot CD that can handle all kinds of partitioning duties

To use it, just download the GParted Live CD, burn it to a CD, then reboot your computer (booting from the disc). You'll boot right into the partitioning tool. HowtoForge's previous guide to modifying partitions with GParted is a great place to start, but it's a fairly basic procedure:

1. Resize your current OS drive to free up enough space for a Windows 7 partition  (the minimum system requirements ask for 16GB).
2. Create a new partition from the newly freed space.
3. Apply your changes.

Partition Your Hard Drive in Vista

The folks at Redmond were kind enough to include a disk partitioning tool in Vista if you know where to look. So go to Control Panel -> System and Maintainence (skip this one if you're in Classic view) -> Administrative Tools -> Computer Management. Once you launch the Computer Management tool, click on Disk Management under the Storage heading in the sidebar. It's partitioning time.

Luckily we've already gone down this road before in step-by-step detail, complete with pictures, so check out our previous guide to creating a new partition in Vista. In a nutshell, you'll need to shrink your current OS partition to free up at least 16GB of disk space (per the Windows 7 minimum system requirements), then create a "New Simple Volume" from the free space.

Step 2: Install Windows 7

Now that you've done all the heavy lifting, it's time for the easy part: Installing Windows 7 on your new partition. So insert your Windows 7 disc and reboot your computer (you'll need to have enabled booting from your DVD drive in your system BIOS, but most PCs will have this enabled by default). 

Once the DVD boots up it's a simple matter of following along with the fairly simple installation wizard. When you're choosing installation type, be sure to select Custom (advanced) and choose the partition you set up above. (Be careful here. Choosing the wrong partition could mean wiping your other Windows installation altogether, so make sure you pick the new partition you just created.) 

After you select the partition, go grab yourself a drink and let the installer do its work. Windows will run through some installation bits, restart a few times in the process. Eventually you'll be prompted to set up your account, enter your license key, and set up Windows. Keep your eyes open for fun new Windows 7 features, like your new homegroup (and the accompanying password). When it's finished, you're up and rolling with your new Windows 7 installation. 

Congratulations! You should now have a new entry for Windows 7 on your boot screen when you first start up your computer. You've now got all the tools necessary to dual-boot Windows 7 and XP or Vista—or even to triple-boot Windows 7, Vista, and XP.

This isn't the only way to set up a multi-boot system by any means, but it's how I pulled it off. If you've got a method of your own that you prefer, let's hear it in the comments.

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